Which Raspberry Pi Board Should You Buy? A Project-Based Guide for Australian Makers

Buying a Raspberry Pi used to mean picking the newest one. Today the range is split in two: full Linux computers (Pi 5, Pi 4, Zero) and microcontrollers (Pico). Choose the wrong side and you either overpay for a board that sits idle, or buy one that cannot run the software you planned.

For most people choosing Raspberry Pi Boards in Australia, the Pi 5 is the best all rounder for desktop use, servers and cameras. The Pi 4 is the budget Linux option and the Zero 2 W suits tiny builds. The Pico or Pico 2 suits sensors, motors and battery projects that do not need Linux. If your project needs a desktop, a browser or several programs running together, buy a Pi. If it needs one job done reliably, buy a Pico.

Key takeaways
  • Linux needed? Pi 5, Pi 4 or Zero. One simple task? Pico.
  • Pi 5 vs Pi 4: the Pi 5 costs about A$16 to A$18 more at Pakronics for the same RAM size, but needs a bigger power supply and its own case.
  • Zero 2 W is the better Zero for new builds. It costs the same as the older Zero W at Pakronics.
  • The board is not the whole bill. Power supply, storage, cables and soldering needs vary by board (see the setup table).

Linux or microcontroller: which do you need?

Linux or microcontroller: which do you need?

Choose a Linux board (Pi 5, Pi 4 or Zero) when your project needs an operating system, a screen, a browser or multiple programs at once. Choose a Pico when the project does one job, such as reading a sensor or switching LEDs. The Pico cannot run Raspberry Pi OS.

Raspberry Pi's own documentation draws the same line. Its Linux boards boot an operating system from storage. Pico boards run programs flashed straight onto the board's memory and are aimed at real time control and lightweight embedded work. You write for a Pico in MicroPython or C/C++.

A quick test:

  • Need a screen, web browser, database, USB camera or Python libraries? Linux board.
  • Need precise timing, battery power or a very low cost per unit? Pico.
  • Building a robot? Use both. A Pi handles vision and the interface, a Pico handles the motors.

Decision matrix: which board for which project?

For most projects, the right pick is the cheapest board that clears your memory, connection and software needs. This table matches common builds to a board.

Project Best pick Why
Desktop PC, coding on screen, school lab Pi 5 (4GB) Fastest board, smooth desktop. Pi 4 4GB is the budget alternative
Home server, DNS filtering, home automation hub Pi 4 (2GB or 4GB) Low demands, cheaper. Pi 5 suits you if you want NVMe storage through the PCIe connector
Media centre Pi 4 or Pi 5 Both have dual micro-HDMI output
Camera, time lapse, computer vision Pi 5 Two 4 lane camera/display connectors
Information display or kiosk screen Pi 4 Enough power for a web page display, simpler supply
Tiny Linux gadget (small web service, wearable, hidden camera) Zero 2 W Small, quad core, built in Wi-Fi
Sensor, LED or motor control Pico or Pico 2 Instant start, low power, cheap
Wi-Fi sensor node Pico W or WH Wi-Fi and Bluetooth on board
Learning electronics for the first time Pico H or WH Headers already soldered
Learning Linux and Python Pi 4 or Pi 5 Full desktop and GPIO
Robot with vision Pi 5 plus Pico Pi sees, Pico drives

Pi 5 or Pi 4?

If you are buying new, the Pi 5 is usually the better purchase. At Pakronics it costs about A$16 to A$18 more than the matching Pi 4, and Raspberry Pi quotes a 2 to 3 times CPU performance gain. The Pi 4 still wins if you already own a 15W supply and case, or want the cheap 1GB option.

RAM Pi 4 Model B Pi 5 Gap
1GB A$61.60 Not offered by Pakronics n/a
2GB A$119.34 A$135.30 A$15.96
4GB A$176.00 A$193.60 A$17.60
8GB A$290.40 A$308.00 A$17.60

What the extra money gets you on the Pi 5: a PCIe connector for fast storage (needs a separate M.2 HAT or adapter), an RTC battery connector, a power button, a fan connector and two 4 lane camera/display ports.

What it costs you beyond the board: the Pi 5 wants a 27W (5V/5A) USB-C supply, where the Pi 4 runs on 15W (5V/3A). On a 5V/3A supply the Pi 5 limits attached peripherals to 600mA. Pi 4 cases do not fit a Pi 5, and Raspberry Pi recommends active cooling (the Active Cooler or the official Pi 5 case) to reduce thermal throttling. The Pi 5 also drops the Pi 4's 3.5mm AV jack.

RAM guide (our recommendation): 2GB for headless servers and light tasks, 4GB for a desktop, 8GB for heavy multitasking or development work.

When is a Pi Zero the right choice?

Raspberry pi zero

Choose a Zero when size and power draw matter more than speed. The Zero 2 W is the pick for new builds: it uses a newer chip than the original Zero range, has built in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, and costs the same as the older Zero W (A$26.40) at Pakronics.

Know the trade offs before you buy:

  • Wi-Fi is 2.4 GHz only. There is no Ethernet port and no 5 GHz support.
  • 512MB RAM limits it to light jobs.
  • Ports are small. It has mini-HDMI and micro-USB, and the Zero cannot power a keyboard and mouse together. Use a micro-USB OTG adapter and a powered hub, and connect USB devices before boot, since plugging them in later can reboot the board.
  • Headers: the plain Zero 2 W has an unpopulated GPIO header. The Zero 2 WH (A$31.68, about A$5.28 more) arrives with pins soldered. Buy the WH if you do not own a soldering iron.

When should you choose a Pico?

Choose a Pico when your project is one repeating task that needs to start instantly, run on little power or be built in numbers. Pakronics lists the Pico (A$7.04), Pico H (A$8.80), Pico W (A$10.56), Pico WH (A$12.32) and Pico 2 (A$8.80).

  • Pico (RP2040): dual core Arm Cortex-M0+ up to 133MHz, 264kB RAM, 2MB flash.
  • Pico 2 (RP2350): up to 150MHz, 520kB RAM, 4MB flash, and a choice of Arm Cortex-M33 or RISC-V cores. For a new project it is the better value at A$8.80.
  • H means headers fitted. Without H, you solder. Note the Pico 2 listing at Pakronics has no headers.
  • W means wireless. Pico W models add 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi and Bluetooth 5.2.

You program a Pico from another computer over a micro-USB cable. MicroPython supports drag and drop installation, so you do not need extra hardware to start.

These figures follow Raspberry Pi's official hardware documentation.

Specification Pi 5 Pi 4 Model B Zero 2 W Pico 2
Type Linux computer Linux computer Linux computer Microcontroller
Processor Quad core Cortex-A76, 2.4GHz Quad core Cortex-A72, 1.8GHz Quad core, RP3A0 Dual core, up to 150MHz
Memory 2GB, 4GB, 8GB (Pakronics) 1GB, 2GB, 4GB, 8GB 512MB 520kB
Wi-Fi Dual band Dual band 2.4 GHz None (Pico W models: 2.4 GHz)
Ethernet Gigabit Gigabit None None
Video out 2 x micro-HDMI 2 x micro-HDMI Mini-HDMI None
Power USB-C, 5V/5A USB-C, 5V/3A Micro-USB, 5V/2.5A USB
Pakronics price from A$135.30 A$61.60 A$26.40 A$8.80

What do you need to set up a Raspberry Pi?

Every Linux Raspberry Pi needs power, an operating system on boot media, a way to see and control it, and the right cables. A Pico needs far less: a USB cable and a computer. Check each product listing, since many boards ship bare.

Requirement Pi 5 Pi 4 Zero 2 W Pico
Power supply 27W USB-C (5V/5A) 15W USB-C (5V/3A) 5V/2.5A micro-USB Micro-USB cable to computer
Storage microSD, 32GB or more for desktop, 8GB or more for Lite Same Same None needed
Display cable Micro-HDMI to HDMI Micro-HDMI to HDMI Mini-HDMI to HDMI None
Keyboard and mouse USB USB OTG adapter plus powered hub None
Cooling and case Active Cooler or Pi 5 case Optional fan case Optional Optional
Soldering None None Only if header needed Only if not an H model
Network Wi-Fi or Ethernet Wi-Fi or Ethernet 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi Pico W only

Desktop or headless?

A desktop setup needs a monitor, keyboard and mouse. A headless setup needs only another computer and a network connection, and you control the Pi over SSH or Raspberry Pi Connect. Raspberry Pi recommends the Lite OS for headless builds.

Either way, use Raspberry Pi Imager on your computer to write the OS to the microSD card. In its customisation step you can preset hostname, username, Wi-Fi and remote access. Pick an Australian capital city and Imager sets your time zone, keyboard layout and Wi-Fi regulatory domain to match.

Two practical notes: no Raspberry Pi can output video through its USB-C port, and the power supply should have an Australian plug and meet the amp rating for your board. If you want everything in one order, browse the Raspberry Pi kits, accessories and HATs.

Don’t Make These Mistakes When Buying Raspberry Pi Board

  • Underpowered supply. A Pi 5 on a 15W charger will limit peripherals and can behave unpredictably.
  • Reusing a Pi 4 case. It will not fit a Pi 5.
  • Expecting a Pico to run Linux. It will not.
  • Assuming 5 GHz Wi-Fi on Zero or Pico. Both are 2.4 GHz only.
  • Buying a headerless board with no soldering iron. Choose a WH, H or "with headers" model.
  • Forgetting the cable. Pi 4 and Pi 5 need micro-HDMI, Zero needs mini-HDMI.
  • A tiny SD card. Anything under the recommended size runs out of room quickly.

Conclusion

Pick by project, not by spec sheet. Desktop, camera or server work points to the Pi 5. A lower cost Linux board points to the Pi 4. Compact Linux builds point to the Zero 2 W. Simple, low power control points to a Pico. 

FAQs

Which Raspberry Pi is best for a first project?

Learning on a screen: a Pi 4 or Pi 5 with 4GB. Learning electronics: a Pico H or WH, since the headers are already fitted.

Can I use a Pi without a monitor?

Yes. Set up SSH or Raspberry Pi Connect in Imager, then control the board from another computer.

Can a Pico and a Pi work together?

Yes. A common pattern is a Pi running the software and a Pico handling timing critical hardware, connected over USB or GPIO.

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